ART CERAMICA

DIY


318 London Road, Westcliff-on-Sea, Essex SS0 7JJ

Tele: 01702 335338 - E-Mail Steve


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Work Examples


Simple Tiling

In principle, DIY tiling is not difficult but that only really applies for a small area on a completely flat surface with no cutting. Even then, you might need some advice on which adhesive and grout to use along with guidance on surface preparation. The only tools required are a simple plastic notched adhesive spreader, a grout spreader, some tile spacers and maybe a round stick for use as a grout finisher.


Tools 1


WARNING - Flying fragments and sharp edges - wear protective glasses and gloves




Tools 2

Simple Cutting

Assuming standard tiles are being used, not too thick and not hard, cutting across the whole tile is based on scoring and snapping. It is not easy and sometimes not possible to cut narrow strips by this method so the layout should be carefully planned to ensure that these will not be required (see below). Those with little experience should also order extra tiles to allow for breakages. Tools required are a tile scribe (snap over a raised straight edge) or cut and snap pliers with a built-in cutting wheel and pivoting breaker clamp.




Tools 3


Tools 0

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Tools 0


Faster and Complicated Cutting

For faster and more accurate scoring and snapping, a flatbed cutter could be obtained (right). For more complicated shapes, the professional would score the tile and break pieces and fragments off using nibbler pliers but the amateur might use a tile saw (left). Assuming you bought the tiles from us, you can bring them to the shop and we will cut them, if you want (fee charged).


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Difficult Tiling

For thick, large or hard tiles, such as most floor tiles, a diamond wheel tile cutter will be required (right). This is an electric circular saw with a tank to facilitate water cooling. For spreading and grooving adhesive, the professional will use a tiling trowel (left). These are available with different notch sizes to suit the particular type of tiling. He will also use a similar shaped grout spreader.



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Finishing

You might need some tile trim for any outfacing corners, as most tiles do not have suitable finished edges. For such as around a window, the joins need a mitre cut, as shown.

It is important to wipe the tile surface with a wet sponge or cloth before the grout dries and to remove any adhesive before grouting. With the speed of an expert, a large area will be grouted in a short time but it can be a rather slow job for the first timer, as can be be spreading adhesive, grooving it and fitting the tiles properly.




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Layout

With wall to wall and floor to ceiling tiling or filling the complete space between units, it is most unlikely that all appropriate edges will be parallel and straight. To disguise this, the layout should be such that edges have wide tile cuts and tiling started in the middle of the area. Narrow strips should also be avoided due to the difficulty in cutting them. Then any obstructions, such as electrical sockets, should be considered and this might change the layout or even tile size used.

This is to illustrate how layout can affect the number of tiles required - ORDER ENOUGH for this and breakages. The example shown is around 7.6 tiles wide and 6.1 high, where measurements might suggest that 47 tiles would do it. The top example would need 42 whole tiles and 10 for cutting cutting at 0.1 high or 0.3 wide, where two narrow strips can be cut from each tile (total 52 tiles). The bottom example has 30 whole tiles but the cuts are either 0.8 wide or 0.55 deep each requiring a whole tile, leading to 26 being required for cutting (total 56 tiles).


Tools 1